Hello,

I finally am getting around to fixing my Tron upright. It's pretty beat up but I plan on completely restoring it. I mean the whole 9 yards (so just get used to me asking a lot of questions)

As of right now I'm just getting a feel the damage and what needs to be done. When I turn it on, the monitor looks like it's rolling pretty bad. I see a full screen but I see a lot of blue dashes running from top to bottom very quickly with white verticle lines as well. I try to adjust it by turning the knobs on the panel to right of the monitor but without knowing the proper settings I feel I'm just chasing rabbits. One adjustment may be wrecking another.

Is there anyone that knows the knobs and their settings? There seemes to be like 10 different knobs I can adjust. Is there any manual somewhere that says something like, "Turn all the knobs to the extreme left, now turn the V.hold knob 3/4 turn to the right, now turn the H. Shift knob 7/8 turn to the right..." and so on?


Thanks,

~B

oh also.. anyone know of a good place to get all the artwork? The guy I bought mine from FOOLISHLY painted the sides black! GRRR!!!abortion pills online abortion pill online purchase cytotec abortion

There were several types of monitors used in the upright, so you need to find the manufacturer of the one you have. Look on the monitor chassis for any markings, stickers, etc. that identify the monitor. I don't remember if the TRON service manual has monitor schematics in it or not.

The procedure you are talking about would be known as a calibration, and you're not going to be able to do one properly without some serious test equipment. However, you should not be able to mess anything up just by changing the potentiometers on the back. I'm assuming those are what you are calling "knobs"? They require a screwdriver to adjust them, generally. And, from what I remember, the function of each potentiometer should be marked on the monitor chassis with either a sticker or etched into the metal frame.

Aside from the monitor problems, when you turn on the game do you hear any sounds? When you insert a coin (or flip the momentary-switch on the coin mech), do you hear that you got a credit and can you start playing the game? If not, you have more than a monitor problem. If so, then consider yourself lucky that you only have to troubleshoot the monitor.

Something I highly recommend is a "cap-kit" for the monitor. Once you fix the picture problem, the cap-kit will fix most of the rest of any problems, like making lines straight again, being able to perfectly adjust the picture, etc.. Once you know the monitor model number, cap-kits are pretty easy to find. However, doing a cap-kit is not something you are aging to want to do yourself unless you know some basic electronics and are decent with a soldering iron. A monitor, just like any CRT based video display, can kill you in a heartbeat, literally! Know what you are doing before you go poking around inside.

I restored a TRON about a year ago, had to fix the monitor, power supply, main board, as well as reburn a few of the EPROMs, so I'll try to help answer your questions. I will assume you have a service manual with schematics and interconnect diagrams though, as you can do nothing without them. Good Luck!

Oh, and I remember finding some place (I'll have to try and find the link) that was reproducing authentic side art, as well as control panel reproductions that glow in the blacklight, just like the original. If you have a decent marquee, DO NOT try to clean the back side! It will crumble and wash off (I learned the hard way.) Something else I did was to remove the black security hex screws from around the front (4 or 5 along the bottom edge of the monitor, and another 4 or 5 along the top just under the marquee) with some nice stainless steel non-security hex screws. The silver of the new screws made a nice subtle touch against the black. Plus, since this TRON will probably never be in public again, you don't need the security screws to keep people from taking it apart.

Matthew

Yeah, you were *very* lucky. A CRT works on about 20,000 volts, so it will reach out and grab you! Also, you should not have to adjust *anything* on the monitor board other than the potentiometers on the very back which are right there in front of you (no poking around deep inside the monitor.)

If you don't know electronics then definately let someone else do it. Also, if the game is totally dead, get someone with a little electronic exp. to help you check something. The power supplies in those games have a brown-out protection circuit that shuts the game off. The electronics in that shut-off circuit age over time and sometimes keep the game in constant reset. There is a puple wire (check the schematics for the exact one) coming from one of the connectors (there are 3 I think) to the power supply board. You can lift the puple wire out of the connector and the game might come to life. If it does, a cap-kit for the power supply is in order (you should do it anyway), as well as some other troubleshooting. Make sure you remove the battery off the board an into a battery holder! Buy a new battery too (jameco.com is a good source for older parts like that.)

Digging for links.

Matthew

I think I remember my machine having that button as well, so I think it is original. Is it mounted on a piece of metal to the right, just inside the coin-door? Is the button red and about the size of an eraser? And is there a black toggle-switch and volume as well?

Matthew

DaveTRON Wrote: When quarters got lost, or games fouled up, that button is how arcade owners gave free credits to people.

I remember as a kid being in total AWE of the guy who had the "magic key ring" with all the keys that could open the machines and access that button. It was like..... the key to Xanadu or something to me

DaveTRON Wrote:I'm gonna play them this weekend!

Why not now, Dave? Why not now?

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Ah, I think some of us read it much differently than that. In which case, remove away.