SuPeRTaRD Wrote:mirage366 Wrote:
I just thought that I might check with all of you before I consider spending $80.00 for a switching power supply...
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a 12v/5v modern switchable powersupply shouldnt cost you nearly that much.. imo
the hum is prolly from the OEM ps giving the sound board/chips too much juice
alt.fan?.recreation.videogames.arcade.classic
or there abouts newsgroup would be able to tell you where to get cheap PSU's & further diagnose probs (mebbe) |
$80 is about right for the switching power supply conversion. These supplies are *not* the same as you would find in a standard computer these days, thus they are not produced in the same volume as a PC supply, so they cost a little more.
As for the OEM power supply giving too much "juice", sorry, it just does not work that way. In electronics, a "load" (in this case the game boards and such) draw current provided by the power supply. A load will only draw as much current as it needs, regardless of how much current the power supply is able to provide. Think about the dome light in your car. It is a very small 12V light bulb, yet it is hooked to a battery that can supply 500+ cold cranking amps! You can weld with a car battery, so why doesn't that tiny little light bulb explode? Because it only draws the current is needs, not the other way around.
Now, if the voltage being provided by the power supply is off, now you could have some problems, but a hum in the audio would be the last thing you would notice. Voltage is the "difference of potential" that causes current to flow. If the voltage is wrong then the current flow will be wrong, and if the voltage is too high, then you get current flow that can damage something.
There is nothing wrong with the OEM power supply, in fact it is a very nice linear supply (I've fixed a couple of them so far)! It will cost you more to operate the game on the linear supply over a switching supply, this is true, but to recover that $80 in the difference of electricity, that would probably take a while. A switching supply is also going to cause a lot more "noise", electronically speaking, than any linear supply.
If you do keep the OEM supply, there are several things you are going to want to do:
1. Like Joey said, get rid of that lithium battery! They will leak and cause serious damage to the other components and the circuit board. There is conversion information out there, I'll see if I can still find the links. Basically you will want to replace it with another rechargeable battery of some sort. Even using a lithium is fine, but get a battery holder for it and move the battery off the board and mount it someplace where any leakage won't damage anything.
2. Replace all the electrolytic capacitors. This is a cheap thing to do and makes a huge difference, and may even solve your audio problems. You can get what you need from places like digikey, mouser, jameco, etc..
3. Check for other components that appear physically damaged and replace them.
4. Do voltage checks and make sure the supply is properly adjusted. I recommend disconnecting the supply and adjusting the voltage a about 0.7 vdc low, then connect to the game and adjust to the proper voltage while under load. You can never properly adjust a power supply without it's load.
5. Check and clean the connectors.
There is also a "cap kit" (capacitor kit) for the monitor which will work wonders! After I capped my monitor, everything aligned and the lines were straight. You will also want to re-cap the audio amplifier board. The last thing to remember is that there is a lot of electronic noise inside a game like this (2 or 3 florescent lights, a monitor, computer, power supply, etc.) and you may never get totally clean audio with some hum, but it should not be noticeable over the game sounds.
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